1. Day 14: Death Valley to Las Vegas

    Saturday, April 16, 2011

    Wow, time has flown by! I can’t believe our two weeks are up.
    We managed to drag ourselves out of bed just in time to watch the sun rise over the dunes. The whitish blocks near the right bottom of the picture are dried mud flats.


    There’s the sun!

    Too bright to take pictures in that direction now.


    Time for another visit to the Devil’s Cornfield.


    On the way back to the hotel I take some more pictures of the sand dunes with my tele lens. 



    Luckily we had the foresight to undertake the monumental task of repacking our bags last night. Amazing the amount of stuff we brought with us! Sandy packed her bag so tight the zipper broke, but at least I was able to rig it with my luggage strap.
    There’s a small convenience store at the gas station across the road so we pick up some stuff for breakfast. We’re still not very hungry and we have big plans for later so I just have some fruit juice and a cheese stick.
    We rattle our way up yet another dirt road to the start of Mosaic Canyon. It’s pretty narrow at first. 


    Then it starts to widen out.


    Beautiful coloring on the canyon walls.


    It’s fun getting up and down from some of the ridges.
       
    Sometimes it’s easier to just slide down the smoother sections.


    The reflecting sunlight paints the rocks a warm orange.


    It’s still pretty hazy when we get back to the car, even though the ranger last night predicted things would have settled down over night. You can barely make out the sand dunes. 


    We have to drive past Zabriskie’s Point on the way back to Vegas so we hop out to take some more pictures.


    There’s a good trail on the right side of the viewing area, but I spot a faint trail leading to the bottom from the left. It starts out pretty decent, but then it gets steeper and the dried mud has no traction so even with the side of my foot dug in I find myself sliding.
    Looks different from the bottom.


    Dry cracked mud in a wash.

    When I turn around to get back up I’m shocked …that’s some incline! I have to dig my fingers and toes into the dirt to make it past the steepest section. Whew, I’m huffing and puffing by the time I manage to draw myself up over the ledge.


    You know, it’s sad that most people don’t give Death Valley the time it deserves. This was our second visit here and still there’s so much more left to explore.
    Once we start getting closer to Las Vegas we drive past an area heavily populated with fuzzy looking Joshua Trees.


    Some kind of palm trees.


    The stupid GPS decides to make us drive all the way down the Strip. It’s kind of a nice drive, even though traffic barely moves. Luxor in the sunshine.


    There’s just enough time to have a lavish lunch before turning in the rental car so we return to our new favorite: the glitzy Wynn. Hmmm so good! Again we stuff ourselves until the very thought of food is enough to make us nauseated.


    Las Vegas airport is unlike any other airport; there are slot machines everywhere and it’s depressing to watch people thoughtlessly feed 5 dollar bills into the machines, while their kids keep tugging on their sleeve to get their attention.
    After a short delay while we’re waiting for our pilots to get there we’re on our way home!
    Miles for today: 163
    Restaurant: Wynn (lunch buffet)

    NOTE: I don't know why, but it's rotating my pictures again. Sorry!

  2. Day 13: Las Vegas to Death Valley

    Friday, April 15, 2011

    It’s hard not to feel better waking up in a suite so large it’s bigger than our old apartment. Still, not wanting a repeat of last night’s dinner debacle we decide to try someplace new for breakfast. I’ve heard a lot of good things about the luxurious Wynn, which happens to be nearby, so it seems like a no-brainer.
    I wish I had brought my camera because it is so beautiful inside the Wynn. Vibrant red, plush carpeting lines the hallways and everything is shiny, sleek and bursting with color. There’s a line when we get to the buffet which we take to be a good sign.
    After we get seated we first do a walkthrough of the entire buffet.  So much food and it all looks so good we barely know where to start! Sandy grabs a couple of small things then we head to the omelet station where we both have an omelet prepared for us.
    Oh, it’s so good! Sandy shares her delicious grapefruit dish with me, then we go for round 2 only to find that half of the breakfast food has been replaced with lunch dishes. Oh no! I’d planned it all out, but didn’t take into account that they switch to lunch after 11am. Luckily brunch turns out be just as amazing as breakfast looks and we spend an hour and half gorging ourselves until we can eat no more. I can’t remember even half the stuff I ate, but among my favorites were the smoked salmon with capers, vanilla yogurt with homemade granola, different kinds of Gouda cheese, naan bread, the most tender flank steak imaginable and white chocolate covered marshmallow lollipops. My stomach is straining under the extra volume, but I wore stretch pants so it’s all good … today is going to be a great day!
    I’m really excited to go back to Death Valley, arguably one of the most inhospitable places in the world, it is also in my opinion one of the most beautiful.
    Strange orange vegetation right before we drive into the park.


    The plan is to see some of the things we didn’t get to see last year, but we can’t resist a quick stop at Zabriskie’s Point. It’s so nice and warm when we get out of the car!


    View towards the other direction.


    Death Valley is the largest park in the continental US and it’s a long drive to Scotty’s Castle. To put things in perspective; it’s about the same distance as Den Bosch to Haarlem! We get there right at 4pm and I worry that we have missed the tour, but it’s not too late and we join our guide near the front gate.


    Fancy old towncar.



    The history of Scotty’s Castle is fascinating. Here's a link to a brief synopsis.
    Our guide was a fantastic story teller. Clad in period clothing, here she’s pointing out Scotty’s "shot splitter", through which he could supposedly strick the barrel of his gun so he could simultaneously shoot whoever was at the door, as well as anyone standing by his window.


    Ornate decorating inside. Interestingly all the furniture are one of a kind pieces, that were created specifically for the house by a man who was hired to tour European Castles and replicate all the things he found there.


    Dining room. 

    Overview from the outside.


    Ubehebe Crater is a short distance from the Castle so after the tour’s finished we drive straight there. It’s half a mile across and 500feet deep, but you can’t really tell the size of it in this picture because of the shade.


    The surrounding landscape is very interesting, a deep gray layer of volcanic debris with only occasional vegetation.


    It’s getting late and when we drive back the light on the colorful hills are beautiful.  


    There are a few familiar stops on the way to our hotel; first up Devil’s Cornfield.


    Then the gently sloping Mesquite Sand Dunes. What a great spot to watch the sun set!



    We wait until it’s almost dark then we head back to the parking lot. A large group of people is just heading out into the dunes and when I follow them I spot a ranger up ahead. Yay, we’ve just stumbled upon a ranger guided nighttime hike into the dunes!

    The ranger has great stories about the nocturnal animals that live in Death Valley. When the tour is over it’s completely dark and we have to follow someone carrying a flashlight to get back to the car without having a run in with one of the creepier crawlies.
    I can’t bring my bathing suit back home without using it so I take a very quick dip in the (cold) hotel pool before we go to sleep.
    There’s internet, but they limit the amount of data you use to only 25mb so by the time we check our e-mail and the weather we’re locked out. Oh well, that just means I have no excuse not to get up early to watch the sunrise.
    And yes, we ate so much this morning that we’re still not hungry! No dinner tonight.

    Mileage for today: 225 mi
    Hotel: Stovepipe Wells
    Restaurant: Wynn (brunch buffet)




  3. Day 12: Grand Canyon to Las Vegas

    Thursday, April 14, 2011

    Before you start reading today’s blog take a moment to think about the MOST dangerous animal in the Grand Canyon. What do you think it is? I’ll reveal the answer later …
    Our plan to get up to watch the sun rise fails miserably. We have a lot of things planned for today, so instead of going for breakfast we break into our supply of energy bars. Sadly, we’ve run out of the tasty ones, now we’re down to the truly sugary sweet. Blergh!
    We check out of the hotel, then drive towards Mather and Yavapai point. We pass the barn with all the mules and there’s a cute sign to warn drivers about mules crossing the road (in hand). Sandy thinks I should ride a mule down into the canyon, but I don’t think I’d trust a mule to navigate those narrow ledges without stumbling.


    You’re not allowed to drive your own vehicle West of the village, so we park at the Bright Angel Lodge to board the free shuttle to Hermit’s Rest. As luck would have it, we find the giant coach parked right across the street. After a few minutes the driver returns and starts collecting tickets …. eh, what tickets?
    Yeah, we got on the wrong bus! Apparently it was a guided tour we joined. But the driver is really nice and offers to drop us off at the shuttle stop. Now if that isn’t traveling in style; taking a shuttle to the shuttle!
    The light is much better for taking pictures today.


    Solar flare from the direct sunlight, but you can tell I love the Grand Canyon. 

    The buses leave every 15 minutes, so we hop on and off to our hearts content. There are a lot of Utah Junipers at the Grand Canyon that beg to be climbed. When we get to Powell Point I can’t resist the temptation anymore.

    It’s only a short distance to the next stop, Hopi Point, so we decide to walk there along the Rim Trail. Fencing is inconsistent to nonexistent.


    In this picture you can see some of the different layers and how their composition has affected their appearance. Whereas limestone and sandstone are very resistant to erosion, shale erodes over time causing those layers to slope.


    Pinyon Jay in a Pinyon Pine.


    And finally, the most dangerous animal in the Grand Canyon is the ever ferocious Spermophilus Variegatus. They’re responsible for more injuries to humans than any other animal in the park, as many as 15 a day! Yikes, and then to think a lot of them carry parasites that can transmit rabies, the plague and the hanta virus. They do look cute though.

    My favorite viewpoints are those from where you can see the river. It looks so tiny!

    We ride the shuttle all the way to Hermit’s Rest, then head back to the lodge. It’s getting a little bit late, but when we spot the Bright Angel Trailhead we can’t resist descending a short distance into the canyon.
    You can see a small opening in the rock (about midway between where the man is walking and the left side of the picture) where the trail snakes through the cliff.

    Close-up of the opening.

    I’m glad I didn’t go on one of those mule rides; some of their hoof prints are past the edge … no, not on the edge, but past it. Apparently they're still a lot safer than horses; they did once pilot using horses instead, but they were found to be to flighty ... you kind of have to wonder how they found out about that.
    There’s still some snow left in the higher elevations and the meltwater has created large slippery sections on the trail, so we have to very careful where we walk.
    If you have the time and the stamina the trail winds all the way down to the river.

    Walking up hill is a lot more strenuous. I can’t imagine what it must be like to look up from the river and know you have to hike back to the lodge somehow.

    On our way out of the park we notice a car on the side of the road with the emergency flasher on. Then we see why:
    There’s a huge herd of elk!

    I spend a good 15 minutes observing them from the bushes. They don’t seem to mind my company at all and just go about their business.

    Finally I manage to pry myself away, but we haven’t gone more than 200 feet when we spot another herd on the other side of the street. This little girl was standing right at the edge of the road and I was able to take this picture from the car without even having to zoom.

    We drive through Williams and stop for gas. You never know how long it’ll be before you see another gas station so we try not to let it get too low. There’s a nice mural nearby.

    Instead of driving the most direct way to Vegas, we make a little detour over the route 66. First stop is quirky Seligman, rumored to have inspired the movie Cars.

    The old jail.

    Fake Elvis?

    The energy bars have long since worn off, so this seems like the perfect place for a quick snack. We decide on #1 ranked Lilo’s and split an order of fried mac & cheese bites. Sadly, it tastes like instant mac & cheese in a greasy, deep-fried coating, yuck! It’s okay though, because we’re trying to save room for the buffet tonight, plus they had a beautiful mountain lion mounted on the wall.

    In my research Peach Springs and Hackberry sounded interesting too, but I have to admit to falling asleep shortly after we left Seligman and by the time I woke up we were well on the way Vegas and I had to use the bathroom so badly.
    As luck would have it we’re right by a couple of gas stations so I shoot upright and yell at Sandy that I need to use to bathroom, but flustered by my sudden wakefulness she can’t decide which one to pull into and we end up passing them out. Argh!
    We’re driving along, and along, and along and of course there are no facilities anywhere; no rest rooms, no gas stations, not even a MacDonald’s (just kidding!). We get off the highway every time there’s a sign for any kind of facility, but every single time it turns out to be several miles down some little road and we’re forced to turn around. The wind is really picking up again, plus we’re in the sparsely vegetated desert so even *that* isn’t an option.
    The GPS has a feature to locate the nearest gas station, restaurant, etc but to unbelievably the closest ones are more than 30 miles away (yep, the ones we passed when I first woke up).  You can’t imagine my relief when I unexpectedly see a Texaco sign in the distance!
    I grab the key for the restroom and run inside. It’s strangely quiet inside … the clerk said there were two women already in there with a kid. How odd! Meanwhile, Sandy’s wondering why I’m not in the bathroom if I had to go so badly? Yep, you’ve guessed it; I accidentally went to the men’s room again. Thankfully I didn’t run into anyone this time, although the shopkeeper did give me a weird look when we were walking out.
    We get to drive across the new bridge at the Hoover Dam, which is pretty cool because we got to see it be built last time we were there. Too bad you can’t see the dam though.
    It’s a bit strange to be back in Vegas. I’ve tried to like it, but the last time was pretty disappointing. This time the weather’s a lot better so we’re hopeful that this will be a better experience.
    By now we’re pretty hungry, but we decide to check into the hotel first. It takes a long time, but we walk away with a free upgrade to a King Suite. Not bad for $27 a night!

    Our excitement is short-lived when we find a bunch of dirty towels in the room, but after a speedy housekeeping visit everything is back in order.
    I trade my cargo zip offs and hiking boots for more appropriate attire and we head across the street to Treasure Island.  I love, love, love their buffet and I can barely contain my enthusiasm after a day of near starvation, but when we find out they’re about to have their Sirens show we decide to go there first. I can’t believe how perfect we’ve timed things; we can see the Sirens then head straight for the buffet and close the day with one of the big shows like Cirque de Soleil. Woohoo! I may start to like Vegas after all!
    It’s windy when we get outside, but that doesn’t dampen my spirits … until they cancel the show! How is it possible that it gets cancelled both times I’ve been to this city of hot, sunny days because of weather?!
    I’m really trying to stay positive here, but this has just not been my day. “Just watch”, I tell Sandy, “now the buffet is going to be horrible,” but she manages to assure me that it should still be fine.
    My favorite is a made-to-order pesto shrimp pasta and we aim straight for the pasta station. I can only watch in horror as the chef drops a generous helping of sundried tomatoes in with the pesto. “Is that mine?” “That can’t be mine?!” “Should I say something?” I’m so busy looking around to see if someone else is coming to pick up their pasta, that I can only stammer thanks when he hands me a heaping plate of food. Did I mention there also weren’t any shrimp? Sadly, the rest of the buffet isn’t any better.
    I’m really bummed right now and not sure what we should do. Should we try to catch the Sirens’ late show and risk missing all the big shows, or definitely give up on seeing the Sirens? We’re already at the TI and it’s close to show time so we decide to stay around for the performance, except they keep delaying the show because they’re waiting for the wind to die down.
    Of course, you can probably guess what happened; the wind picked up even more, the show got cancelled and we ended up missing all the big shows. I’m so mad that I’m secretly thrilled when we find out you have to pay to use the internet … that’s all the excuse I need to go straight to bed and hope for a better day tomorrow.
    Miles for today: 297
    Hotel: Imperial Palace
    Restaurant: Lilo’s (lunch appetizer)
                          Treasure Island (buffet)