1. Day 8: Moab to Cortez

    Saturday, April 9, 2011

    Breakfast today is at a trendy little place called Love Muffin, where everything is organic and frequently also vegan. We both have delicious bacon, egg and cheese Panini’s with super fresh tomatoes. What a shame that we didn’t discover it until today, but at least we have to good sense to order a carrot cake scone and a raspberry almond muffin to go.

    After a quick stop for supplies at the City Market, we say goodbye to rugged Moab and our cozy little cabin and head South on 191. We happen to pass by Hole N The Rock, a very strange tourist attraction that combines a 5000ft home inside a giant rock, a yard filled with curiosities, some tourist shops and an exotic petting zoo.

    A couple of examples:

    Golfer made out of golf clubs.
    Next up, Wilson’s Arch is also right at the side of the road. It’s very cold today so Sandy decides to wait in the car while I scramble up to the top. Great view from up there.

    Finally, after passing numerous signs warning us about open range cattle and tons of cattle guards, we run into a bunch of cows crossing the road. That does add to the Wild West feeling!
    Unfortunately, as we’re driving to Newspaper Rock the already ominous weather turns to snow. We did plan for some cold weather, but not really this kind of cold weather! Luckily it’s just flurries … for now.
    Newspaper Rock, or as the Navajo refer to it Tse’ Hane’ (rock that tells a story). What exactly that story is, is unknown, except that it is a collection that spans about 2000 years.

    If we had stuck to the plan this is where we would’ve turned back towards the highway, but after yesterday’s visit to Island in the Sky where we couldn’t see the Needles through the dense fog we decide to drive for another 20some miles to the Canyonlands visitor center. Unfortunately it doesn’t look like the view will be any better today.

    This goes to show you that horses are pretty smart; it’s wicked cold outside with snow and hail and these guys know just which way to face to get the least exposure.
    The weather turns out to be extremely changable today. This beautiful vista greeted us just as we were about to enter the park.

    We’re short on time so we ask the ranger to recommend a few short trails. First up is the Roadside Ruin, a short self-guided hike to an old granary. The informational pamphlet is very interesting in that it talks about in which ways common desert plants were used in that past (food, dye, medicine, cloth, etc).


    Another beautiful overlook, this one from a large boulder we climbed off the Pothole Point trail.

    And finally a view of the Needles this part of Canyonlands is named after.

    And a third view in a different direction, with oddly shaped mushroom hoodoos. All three of these pictures were taken from the same spot.

    The scenic drive ends at Big Spring Canyon Overlook, where we devour our muffin/scone. Then we drive back towards the visitor center and turn off on the gravel road to Cave Spring.

    The Cave Spring trail is nice in that you can see all the main points of interest within a five minute walk and then turn around. First up an old cowboy hangout under an overhang, then a few minutes later pictographs of figures and handprints. You’re not allowed to touch the fragile pictographs, but it was obvious that these people had very small hands compared to people today.

    A short distance later two sets of ladders lead to another great viewpoint.

    Having already spent way more time there than planned we finally leave Canyonlands behind and retrace our path back to the highway, from where we head towards Colorado. We spot more snowcapped peaks in the distance even though the elevation here is ‘only’ about 6000ft.

    Yay! Another new state for me.

    There’s a blanket of snow covering the fields here and the wind blowing across the fields feels like it’s coming straight from the north pole. It’s strange how you can’t even tell where the sky ends and the land begins, because of low hanging clouds.

    Little calves everywhere. They are so cute!

    Driving through these little towns is quite depressing. Amazing how dilapidated the houses are … almost unimaginable living there.
    Just before we enter Cortez the snow suddenly picked up and we find ourselves in a mini-blizzard. The windshield wipers are working hard to clear the windshield and the sky is so dark it looks to be about 8pm even though it’s hours earlier.
    We check into our new cabin for tonight, which thankfully has a heater … but unfortunately there’s about a ¼ inch gap between the door and the frame. It has a kind of rustic charm.

    Tomorrow is the first day Mesa Verde National Park starts its guided tours to the cliff dwellings and I really wanted to get us signed up today so we head for the park entrance right across the street only to find that it’s already closed for the day. Fingers crossed that 1) it won’t be snowing tomorrow morning, and 2) they still have some spots left.

    The proprietor recommends a Mexican restaurant called Tequila’s and after learning it’s also rated #1 on Tripadvisor, one of my favorite travel planning websites, we see no reason to eat anywhere else. Sandy has delectable beef fajitas, while I order the bacon wrapped shrimp he’d recommend. It is heavenly! To make it even better the waiters speak a mixture of Spanish and English for a real authentic flair.

    The snowing finally stops and when we’re leaving the sun is just starting to set.

    And because you can never have too many sunset pictures:

    It’s still pretty early, but we’re going to have an early night to hopefully get an early start since we couldn’t spend any time at Mesa Verde today.
    Total mileage: Somewhere on my notepad.
    Hotel: A&A Mesa Verde RV Park
    Restaurant: Love Muffin (breakfast and lunch), Tequila’s (dinner)









  2. 1 comments:

    1. r.volmer said...

      Hello,
      What a strange place, that Hole N'The Rock. How ingenious some people are to make a tourist attraction in the middle of nowhere by collecting all kind of strange items.
      I have a week spot for old petrol pumps.
      Nice picture of the horses, with their hanging heads, dozing till the weather clears up. I allways wonder why they don't take shelter somewhere.
      Nice vista, the way the grasses bent in the wind.
      The needles at Pothole Point Trail are very strange, I hope you will get some more pictures of them.
      I wonder what kind of people are living in the little towns, if they cann't thrust the weather, they probabley put their thrust in god.
      Why do the towns look so dilapidaded, are they so poor, don't they care or is it the eroding effect of the winds.
      This turns out to be an all kind of weather tour.
      And again the sunset is majestic.
      Hope you get well soon and that you could still see the Mesa Verde cliff dwellings.
      Lotts of love xxxx and get well soon
      Joeve ( Rob sends you his love and best wishes as well)

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